Mozambique

A former Portuguese colony, Mozambique's violent history is recent and apparent. The literal scars from landmines contrast sharply with a chill beach atmosphere outside Maputo, the capitol. After winning independence in the late 1970's, the communist government was undermined by South Africa (who didn't want a communist nation for a neighbor) leading to civil war in the 1980's. Famous for the amount of landmines that speckled the country, Moz is now a shining example of a peace deal that went right in Africa, and it's lasted over a decade now. It's a beautiful country, with some of the most spectacular beaches I've ever seen, and the culture (and language) is a mix of Portuguese influence and local tribal traditions. Fresh seafood, warm salt water, cold beers, good music and great traveling companions made the trip as close to perfect as luck can allow.


Boats of local fishermen lining the beach in Tofo.



Surf fishing and searching for clams in Tofo. Dolphins played near the shore where a species of sting ray formerly believed to be extinct has been spotted by local divers. Whales spouted close to the horizon and surfers enjoyed great waves (when not being chewed up by the reef).




The local craft market on Tofo Beach. All the woodwork is carved in the back and artisans paint beautiful canvases and batiks at their homes.



Not that it was all smooth sailing - for example, our trip from Vilanculos out to snorkel on reefs along off-shore islands included getting stuck on sandbars. Three flat tires (two concurrently), several chances to push our rental car out of the sand, one speeding ticket, one bribe to get out of a second traffic ticket, and 109123390823 potholes helped marked the passing of time. We crammed the four of us into a room the size of a jail cell onto two single beds and stopped falling for the "it's just 2 hours from here" after the 3rd segment of 6-10 hour drives. But the four of us all know how to laugh it away and the trip was that much more fun for all the adventures. I ate seafood every day - barracuda, crab, prawns, sailfish, stonefish, sushi - played in the surf, snorkeled with fish more brilliantly colored than I could have ever imagined - let alone describe, met people from around the world and down the dirt road and watched the sun come up on the Indian Ocean. I have mosquito bites on my feet and sand in my ears and I love it.


Driving on the shoulder - because it was smoother than the actual road - on the way to Vilanculos from Tofo.

Our boat trip out to islands off the shore of Vilanculos for a day of snorkeling on the reef.



It was impossible for me to stop from comparing Moz to Lesotho. People just looked so much healthier, the markets were full of a variety of fresh produce, there was an industrious attitude apparent in the creativity of crafts and local business. Instead of immediately asking for money or food, people smiled and tried to sell bracelets or samosas. Lesotho is a much harsher place to live - no contest - but the attitude towards bettering individual lives was so different. Physically, the climate and topography are more friendly towards growing crops. Instead of mud rondavals people live in homes made of palm fronds and thatch. The clothing is brighter and more detailed in it's patterns. Even babies are carried on backs differently - though lines of women walk to and from the water pump with buckets of water on their heads just like here in Lesotho.

The fish market in Maputo. Buy your choice of seafood (prawns, lobster, a dozen types of fish, oysters, squid, etc.) then take it to one of 20 local outdoor restaurants right outside where they cook up your selection. Add a Manica (Mozambique beer) and a side of fresh salad and you get four very happy tourists.

Driving out of South Africa (near the Mozambique border) at the beginning of our travels we passed Kruger National Park. And without paying any park entrance fee we saw baboons, monkeys and giraffes between fields of oranges, bananas, sugar cane and rice. This feels like Africa - the wildlife, the climate, the vegetation, the color.

pics from Amber's camera...

driving up to Vilanculos from Tofo (sans Kjessie, who skipped the snorkel trip to surf).

returning our (second) rental car...

hitchin' home!